Words to the Wise Homebuilder – 1928

Make Home Substantial

THE fascinating romance of home building the pursuit of ideals founded on years of delightful delving into the mystic tomes of building lore- often distracts the mind from the more prosaic, practical consideration of materials and construction.

The average home builder has not had the experience to decide technical questions whose disposition determines the measure of satisfaction his home will yield him.

He should not, however, ignore the advantages of being sufficiently informed to discuss the important phases of building. So the main essentials are here briefly outlined.

The Plan in Relation to the  Building Site

Prospective builders usually start with a good general idea of the number and character of rooms they require. The floor plan, or arrangement of the rooms—whether they are all to be on one floor or divided into several stories—depends largely on the building site.

The location of important rooms should be determined by the points of the compass. Light and shadow, warmth and air, have much to do with the comfort and cheer and wholesomeness of the living room, dining room, bedroom and kitchen.

As soon as the plan best suited to one's ideals of living and the conditions of the building site is chosen, attention should be turned to the sizes of the rooms and sullicient wall space for furniture, piano, beds, etc. Nothing is quite as deceiving to the average man as his conception of size conveyed in feet and inches. Many an owner, visiting his home under construction, finds this or that room unexpectedly small. He can avoid such disappointment by measuring- roms and thus establishing in his mind a definite basis for comparison.

Character of the Soil to Build On

Before starting to build, even before working drawings are made, it is advisable to have a survey of the site prepared, indicating besides the accurate outlines of the property the level of the ground in relation to the street or walk, the depth of the sewer and the nature of the soil. Such preliminary information will insure the builder against many unpleasant and costly surprises. The ground level naturally determines the depth of the foundation. No foundation should be laid less than two feet below this level. In northern localities four feet below the finished level is the minimum for safety.

The basement level must be well above that of the sewer to permit proper drainage. Inquiries regarding the nature of the soil may be made of those who have built in the vicinity. Where rocks and springs abound the soil should he carefully examined.

The best soil to build on is gravel. Sand is also good if confined on all sides and prevented from slipping away from under the foundation. The greatest care must be exercised with clay soils. Moisture causes such soils to ooze from under foundations and heave when they freeze. It is therefore important to drain away all moisture possible and to extend the footings; that is, the bottom course of foundations, well below the point where the clay could be affected by frost.

Dampproofing Foundation Walls

In all foundations footings should be widened and proportioned in accordance with the bearing capacity of the ground, in order to spread the weight of the building evenly and prevent settling and  consequent cracking.   The foundation wall, extending from the footings to the finished level of the ground, may be of brick, stone, or concrete. Brick is suitable for dry soil. Rubble stone, solidly laid up in cement mortar, makes a good foundation wall.

To avoid dampness in the basement, two or more coats of asphalt should be applied to the outside of the foundation walls and carried all the way to the bottom of the footings. Plastering with cement also is of service. A trench alongside of the foundation wall, filled with gravel, topped with cement, and provided with a drain at the bottom, is usually found to be the most efficient way to secure a basement free from dampness.

Fire-Resisting Construction

Outside walk may be constructed wholly of wood, wholly of masonry, or of a combination of both. The principal difference between wooden frame buildings and others, excepting fireproof buildings, is in the material used for outside walls. Inside partitions and floors are nearly always framed of wood. An important precaution in connection with framed walls and partitions, one usually not heeded because it adds a bit to the cost, is the matter of fire stopping. As usually framed, the space between vertical supports or studs is left entirely open and unobstructed, like chimney flues. In case of fire in the basement, sparks travel up between studs, carrying the flames to the attic. The natural thing to do, then, is to stop the spaces between studs and floor joists in some manner, preferably with brick or tile laid in mortar. The spaces between the ends of the first floor joists and beams supporting the joists should he filled in the same way. Floor joists and studs should be kept at least two inches away from smoke flues and fireplaces. The space between the timbers and flues should be filled with mortar or mineral wool. Such construction will not only prevent the spread of flame, but will also obstruct the passage of mice or
other vermin.

The Choice of Materials

The material for the exterior of a home determines its design to a considerable extent. It is therefore important to decide early the kind of material to be used. Shall it be wood, stucco, hollow tile, concrete, brick, or stone? Cost, availability and personal taste enter here and should govern.

Wood is the least costly. Stucco on wood frame comes next, with brick veneer following. Hollow tile and concrete are about as costly as brick, while stone is the most expensive, though its cost varies greatly according to the finish and the nearness of the quarry.

Roofing Materials

The roof is important in determining the exterior character of a home. Good taste, guided by practical considerations, should govern the choice of a roofing material.

The formal type of exterior usually requires a roof of smooth texture and fairly uniform color. Rough-textured, many-hued roofs are appropriate to informal designs as long as they are kept within the bounds of harmony and good taste.

In a general way the roofing material is determined by that of the walls. Wood shingles are used with any walls—cedar, cypress and redwood being the most common. These may be stained in colors to harmonize with the walls, or treated with creosote or fire-retarding paints. For buildings of other materials than wood, stucco and brick, the most important roofing consists of slate and clay tiles. Slates vary in color from reds to purples and greens. Clay tiles may he obtained in various shapes and colors. There are the flat shingle tiles, or those of the interlocking Spanish type in reds or greens and glazed or mat finishes.

In addition to the roofing materials named, various makes of asbestos and composition-felt shingles have recently come into use and have produced a material of attractive appearance. Sheet metal, such as copper, lead and tin, is also used as roof covering. In certain types of exteriors the metallic surfaces with standing seams give a desirable effect. Copper is the most expensive, but has the advantage of never requiring paint.  In the average type of home, however,  the use of metal for roofing is ordmarily limited to entrance canopies, porch roofs, etc.

The Pitch or Slope of the Roof

Each type of roofing material just discussed calls for a roof of decided slope. The minimum slope which may be safely used varies with the material. Many roofs leak because their pitch or slope is not right. For each foot in the width of the building a minimum slope is demanded, varying from eight inches for slate and clay tile to two inches for sheet metal. Wood shingles require a minimum pitch of six inches for each foot of width.

Roof Construction

Rusting nails destroy shingle roofs. Experience proves that the old cut iron nail is to be preferred over the common wire nail in general use. Other roofing should be applied in strict accordance with the manufacturers' directions or specifications.

The spaces between the ends of the rafters should be carefully filled in. In wooden buildings boards should be fitted between the rafters and all cracks carefully covered with building paper. In masonry builclings, the walls should be carried to the under side of the roof boards and between the rafter ends, and all voids carefully filled with mortar.

Provide proper flashing around places where leaks most commonly occur, as around chimneys, dormers, etc. Flashings consist of pieces of sheet metal, tin, zinc, copper, or lead. The angle formed by the roof and the vertical surfaces must be securely covered with these metal sheets.

Essential qualities of the home are weather and damp-proofness, fire-resistance and endurance. Let us see how these may be achieved.

How to Make Frame Buildings Wind-Proof and Warm

A good quality building paper, properly placed, makes frame buildings weather-tight and affords efficient heat insulation. This should be nailed over the sheathing just before the facing material is put on, taking special care to cover all joints and angles.  Let it also be remembered that where the outside wall is built of wood framing, the timber known as the sill, resting directly on the masonry foundation wall, should be thoroughly bedded in cement mortar. This will stop an otherwise open joint, which would admit cold
air.

Precautions as to Plastering and Flooring

Plastering often cracks because of uneven settling of the building, due to faulty foundation. Lath must be nailed right to insure a good job of plastering. Besides nailing the right distance apart for proper clinching of the plaster, they must break joints at about every seventh lath. Underflooring should be dressed on one side to a uniform thickness. It should not be laid to run in the same direction as the finished floor. Best of all, let the boards be laid diagonally, as it tends to stiffen the building. Underfloors should be laid close together.

Care of Interior Woodwork

Great care must be taken of interior finish. First of all, let no doors and trim be brought to the premises before the building is thoroughly dry and warm. Immediately upon delivery have the painter apply a coat of filler or stain to all sides of the woodwork—yes, the back of the trim, base and panelling, too. This will protect the wood from the effects of dampness. It must be remembered that even ordinary doors require much precaution and care, though a veneered door with a white pine core will withstand much more than ordinary doors.

The interior finish applied, the floors may be laid. This should he done last to avoid unnecessary damage and wear by workmen. Painting and wood finishing follow, of course. This important branch of the work is thoroughly covered elsewhere in this volume.

Working Drawings and Specifications

Every phase of the new home should be clearly indicated in a complete set of working drawing and specifications. The plans should show all dimensions exactly, include details and design, indicate the kinds of material, etc.

The specificaticns should further describe details of construction, the kinds of appliances to be used, as in wiring, heating and plumbing; also, the workmanship required, covering fully every trade to be employed. It is wise to obtain the services of an impartial and practical superintendent in order to make sure that plans and specifications are strictly followed.

Above all, let everything about the building be decided before contracts are let and construction is begun. Later changes prove costly and 'form the "Extras" so much dreaded by owner, architect, contractor and material man. That advice is just as important today!

It is well for the prospective builder to familiarize himself with all matters discussed in this article. Within these brief limits they could hardly be more than touched upon. Let the home builder learn all he can along the lines suggested, for he will then be able to cooperate all the more with those who are to make
his home a reality.